(gentle music) Visiting Oman means stunning nature, but as well indulging in
its fascinating history that is still very much alive today. And no visit is complete without seeing one of Oman's most important
and historic cities, Nizwa. Travel through time to old forts, to lively animal markets, and join the grand finale
of the series Oman Overland. (gentle music) – [Man] You want a drink of coffee? – No, no, no. You know, I'm all packed. I want to go now. – [Man] Lets take a picture. – Oh, thank you so much.
– So you always find new friends. For example, those people here, who actually asked me for a picture. (Lea laughs)
– Thank you. (gentle music) – So I'm off now from Sinaw
from the camel market. You still see some market
stands here on the side. I guess everyone packing up now, but very understandable because
it's already 8:00 am now, so it's getting hot in here. (gentle music) – Today, it's not a super long ride, but I will stop on the way. Our end goal is this super interesting and famous city, Nizwa, which is about a hundred
kilometers from Sinaw. But I'm doing a detour of
maybe one or two hours more, because I will take you to
some old castles and forts, which I could not have done
with my travel partner.
My first stop on my castle tour took me to one of two castles that
is on many itineraries when it comes to Oman
tourism, to Jabreen Castle. (gentle music) – Getting closer to this castle now, and I have to admit that
I have some expectations because it is supposed to
be one of the most visited, and I think it's one of
the most beautiful castles here in Oman. (gentle music) – That's it. That's, I think it's
called Jabreen Castle, and it's kind of funny to me. I think it's a few hundred years old, but because this kind of architecture, and especially the sandy
stone is still used in Oman these days too for building, it doesn't feel like it's
completely falling out of time. Like if you go to an old fort in Europe, that has basically nothing to do with the normal architecture anymore, but here it still kind of fits in the whole surrounding even though it's old. (gentle music) – I am inside the Jabreen Fort
now, and it's supposed to be one of the most beautiful forts in Oman.
Let's have a look. Jabreen Castle is one of
the most frequented forts in all of Oman. Maybe because it is quite different from the other Omani forts, and therefore is a must see
for every Oman traveler. Jabreen was a primary residential
castle and was not used for military purposes
like most other forts. And it is not only in
an excellent condition after the renovation in 1984, but pretty much the only
building from this period that is richly furnished with traditional and antique furniture from medieval Oman. (gentle music) – It ain't a very big
door to jail. (chuckles) The castle was built in the 17th century by Bilarub bin Sultan, and Jabreen became the capital
after he was elected Imam, as a ruler of inner Oman in 1688. But due to the succession
disputes in the Imamate, Jabreen quickly lost this function and sank into insignificance. Today it is not the center
of a government anymore, but an important witness
of Oman's rich history. (gentle music) – So just around the
corner of Jabreen Castle, where I just was, there is another fort called Bahla, which is very special too.
I will drive there, but I'm
not so sure I will enter, because the city Nizwa
where I go afterwards has a famous fort too, and I think two forts a
day, keep the doctor away, but maybe three forts is
too much of sight seeing, even for me. So let's go there because
it's so close anyways, and then we see. (gentle music) Bahla Fort is the country's biggest and only UNESCO listed
fort, added in 1987. The fort is believed to have been built between the 12th and 15th century by the Banu Nebhan tribe, who inhabited the area at the time, and were known for controlling
the trade of frankincense. As part of the complex, there's also a citadel
oasis adjacent to the fort and an ancient wall
spanning 13 kilometers, part of which are still standing.
– So here's one more fort. It's actually only like 10
minutes from the other one, and I'm not gonna go inside because I'm already forted out. But if you are interested in that, it's for sure a good combination. I instead went to the old, not restored town right next to it, that gives a good feeling about the architecture and materials used for building in Oman
since hundreds of years. – Do you go to Al Hamra?
– [Lea] Al Hamra? – Yes. – [Lea] No, I'm going to Nizwa today. I have already been there. – Jebel Shams? – [Lea] Yeah, I have already been. – Excellent, yeah?
– Yes. Okay. Okay. – [Lea] Very nice. Yeah, Jebel Shams was beautiful. – Beautiful. (gentle music) – Now I'm going to Nizwa, the famous town, and because it's still pretty
early and actually very hot, I hope my room will be ready, so I don't need to wait
outside in the heat. And I can highly recommend to
pre-book something in Nizwa.
I only made my reservation
for a room this morning, and I think 95% of all
accommodation in Nizwa was booked for this weekend. So we will see. I hope it's not too busy. (gentle music) – So this is Nizwa. My accommodation is downtown,
like in the Old Town, and I heard it's very small there with super tiny roads, and the accommodation
said it has a parking, and it was literally the only
place that was still available with parking in Old Town.
So I hope that is true. Nizwa is a mountainous city
located in Northern Oman, about 1.5 hours from Muscat,
the capital of the country. Rich in history and culture, the place holds still to this day, the importance it
conquered in past centuries through its connection
between the rugged interior and the outer regions
of the coastal plain. Nizwa is one of the oldest cities in Oman, and has always been an important place for trading and on the route
of all salesmen and travelers, and still is today. – Roads here are getting
definitely more small. I think I should arrive soon, because the accommodation
is close to the fort. And I think… …this is it. Yes, you can read it here, Bait Alharah.
Wow. And it really has a parking spot. For me, this accommodation
is already a winner because it has this
parking right in Old Town and a super cute-looking old house, with parking right in front of the door. I have to admit, I already love it. And it would have to be
really nasty inside now for me to dislike it. But it wasn't. I can highly recommend Bait Alharah to all individual
travelers visiting Nizwa. The guest house is nestled
into the tiny streets of Nizwa's Old Town, does
not have a 24 hour reception, but the employees will welcome you on your arrival as soon as you call them. And it can't get much more authentic. The guest house has only a few rooms in the traditional old house
that was just newly renovated, and the peaceful terrace
not only invites you to enjoy the sunset, but as well offers a stunning
view on Nizwa's old fort. – So I found a perfect little
guest house here in Nizwa, and it's perfect because it's one of the only places that
has actually parking and is still in Old Town.
And it is an old town, which means it's in these
super nice roads here. And here, you can see the fort. So it's perfectly located. Love it. Part of visiting Oman at
the end of the travel season is this too: I waited a few hours in my room
for the worst heat to pass. And then in the late afternoon,
made it to Nizwa Fort, that I had already seen driving by and from the guest house. I am at the fort in Nizwa now, second fort of the day. And it's actually very interesting, especially the fortification, which is this tower that
you can see behind me. (gentle music) Nizwa Fort was built in the 1650's, although its base structure
goes back to the 12th century. It is Oman's most visited
national monument. The fort was the administrative
seat of authority for the presiding imams and Walis in times of peace and conflict. The main bulk of the fort took
about 12 years to complete and was built above an underground stream. The fort is a powerful reminder
of the town's significance: It was an amazing stronghold
against reigning forces that desired Nizwa's
abundant natural wealth and its strategic location at the crossroads of vital trading routes.
The fort was built for military purpose, and that can still be experienced today. The main part of the fort is
its enormous drum-like tower that rises 30 meters above the ground and has a diameter of 36 meters. The strong foundations
of the fort go 30 meters into the ground. And a portion of the tower is filled with rocks, dirt, and rubble. – Let's go inside the fort. So, when you arrive here inside the fort, there are the doors, and each of these doors has two traps. So if people try to
enter without permission, there are two traps that
will very likely kill them.
There are chambers where
hot date syrup was led through channels to be dropped on enemies trying to enter the fort. At the tower's top, you'll
find 24 spots for cannons. And the design of the tower was completed with battlements, secret
shafts, false doors, and wells to protect the fort. Access to the top of
the tower is only gained by taking a narrow twisty
staircase that is protected by wooden doors studded with metal spikes, and there are shafts, which opened directly
above each sets of stairs, and from where boiling
oil or water was poured on entering enemies, which gave them the lovely
nickname, murder holes.
(gentle music) Oman's oldest souq, which
means market, is the Nizwa Souq in the heart of the city. Often people call it one of
the most beautiful places in the Middle East. And it for sure is one of
the most historical ones. The souq has a main building and a series of separate buildings to its back that house a date market,
a fresh produce market, and other stalls. I was warned that Nizwa Souq
would be very touristic, but I still enjoyed my stroll
through the old market. (birds chirping) – Good morning. I'm up before six again, and I'm going to another market now, the animal auctions in Nizwa,
and they don't last forever. They're supposed only to go until like eight or something like that, so let's be quick and look at them. (gentle music) The best timing to visit Nizwa is staying from Thursday to Friday. Friday morning the
whole inner city changes to a lively street market, with the main attraction
being the goat market. You have to get up early though. Make sure to make your way to the market not later than 6:30 am.
Nizwa is indeed a touristic city, but Friday morning the market
is taken over by its locals and the authentic Omani life and traditional customs come alive. Once you have made your way through the stalls with
antique knives, guns, and food, you'll find the entrance
of the goat market. (goats bleating) People come from Nizwa and
its neighboring regions as far as Ibra, to trade their goats. Until 7:00 am the visitors and buyers of
the market have time to look at the animals they
potentially want to get. But short before the clock ticks 7:00 am, a mystical circle forms around the central part of the market.
And then something that to me felt like a complete chaos broke loose. (crowd chattering) Yes, especially the market
in Nizwa is full of energy. But if you look closely, you will understand its
rhythm and structure. There's a central part with a circular area surrounding it. This is where the sellers walk in circles, showcasing their animals. The buyers surround the circle
from inside and outside, and stop the owner with a
hand gesture or by calling. That's why there is
quite a high noise level with everyone shouting bids and offers. The sellers stop in front
of the interested buyers who investigate the goats, weigh them in their hands,
check the ribs and teeth, before making a decision.
After understanding the rhythm and the organization of the market, the by me assumed chaos turned into a pretty orderly structure. And in the end I was so
happy that I didn't listen to the people who said
Nizwa is too touristic. Even though there were
more tourists present, Nizwa's goat market was a
very different experience than the camel market I
visited the day before. If you would ask me which one to see, I would tell you both. – I actually thought that
I had enough of markets, but actually this one was very nice. So this will be the last ride. Behind me, you can see the
nice guest house here in Nizwa. And I'm going back to Muscat now, and from there drop my bike, and home. (motorcycle rumbling) – Perfect. Thank you. – Yes, it's ridiculous. Guess who after many many years of motorcycling and traveling parked so smart down the hill again that I couldn't get my bike up alone? Yep. It's me. (gentle music) – Okay, now it's time
to say goodbye to Nizwa.
I'm riding back to Muscat now. Can you believe that this journey here in Oman is over so soon? I think it's crazy. And I'm basically only
riding back to Muscat now, and then I stay a night
there, and then it's over. It's so sad. (gentle music) – Last time getting cheap
fuel for about one rial, which is like two, three euros for more than five liters. (gentle music) – These are the mountains
surrounding Muscat again.
I feel like I should
say something smart now, but I really can't come up with anything. I'm just sad that this
amazing trip is over now. Yes, I think that's all. Period. (uplifting music) Oh, Oman. This journey was indeed extraordinary. I spent nearly a month riding with my motorcycle through Oman, discovering the rawest
deserts, the highest mountains, and the most spectacular
coastline I have seen in my life. Oman is the perfect country to travel to, not only because the nature is diverse, because Oman is one of the
safest countries on earth, or because its culture
is simple, traditional, and fascinating at the same time, but mostly because of its people – beautiful from inside out, and some of the most
hospitable on this planet.
I came as a foreigner, and
now only a few weeks later, I felt like leaving as a friend. Oman is called the gem
of the Arabian peninsula for a good reason. And all of you guys,
who watched this series, hopefully can understand
and feel it now too. – So Brett is taking back my Tenere now. – Thanks for visiting Oman, Lea. It's been fantastic. And we look forward to welcoming you back
again in the future, huh? – [Lea] Hope so.
– Thank you. Safe travels. (gentle music) – These are the last minutes in Oman with driver Yusuf again, who is… – Hello. – …bringing me to the airport. Goodbye beautiful country. – Thank you. I hope to see you again in Oman. – I hope to see you.
– After a few years.
– After a few years – I hope now you have
safety and nice trip. – Thank you. When I left Oman after
a month of traveling, I was not saying goodbye. I was saying see you soon. Inshallah. This was indeed a heartbreaking goodbye, but I know that you guys after seeing all the beautiful
sights and nature of Oman probably only have one very
important question left. What happened to my shoes that I carried in my
bag since several days and that were full of smelly camel poop? So party people. This is the very unglamorous
part of traveling. Getting camel poop off my
shoes with a toothbrush before the flight tomorrow.
(playful music) – Putting those here
to dry in the airplane. Hope they are dry when I
arrive in cold Zürich.. Thank you guys for traveling with me all the way through Oman. It was an awesome
journey, and I'm thankful for each and every one
of you who participated in the virtual trip with
their likes and comments.
I will make a little summer
break here on the channel because I'm currently traveling
again, shooting new videos, but I will be back soon with
a live chat and new videos. I will announce the dates as
soon as possible down here in the pinned comment. Stay tuned, and enjoy the summer until it's time to Got2go again. (motorcycle rumbles).